Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
